Early Spencer Jacket

With long sleeves that extend over the back of the hand, this Spencer jacket may be either lined or unlined, with or without ribbon binding, pom poms, and tassel trimming.  The jacket front is gathered at the waistline and held closed with interior ties. This jacket pattern is designed to fit over period-correct stays and a late 1790's – early 1800's gown. Therefore, this jacket will not fit properly on a modern figure wearing modern undergarments. 

Early Spencer Jacket

This original Spencer jacket pattern is based on an extant example in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, New York.  Dated c.1800, and of French manufacture, the jacket is unlined with all interior seams turned and finished.   The Accession Number is 1991.239.2.  http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/98722. 


View A – unlined jacket, with or without outline binding

View B – fully lined jacket, with or without outline binding

About materials:

The original jacket appears to be a plain-weave silk broadcloth.  It is unlined, trimmed with velvet binding. For historical accuracy, please select a similar fabric.

Fabric suggestions:

View A: Silk twill or broadcloth, silk taffeta; light-weight finely-woven linen; light-weight finely-woven wool; cotton twill or broadcloth.  

View B:  All fabrics given for View A, plus velveteen, wool broadcloth, silk velvet. 

View B Lining: china silk, silk taffeta or other thin, light-weight material.

Size 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Bust 34 36 38 40 42 44 48 48

Fabric Requirements in yards, View A or B, with or without nap:

45" 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/2 2-1/2 3 3 3 3
54" 1-7/8 1-7/8 2 2 2-1/4 2-1/4 2-1/2 2-1/2

 Fabric Requirements in yards, View B Lining, without nap:

45" 1-7/8 1-7/8 2-1/4 2-1/4 2-1/2 2-1/2 3 3
54" 1-7/8 1-7/8 1-7/8 1-7/8 1-7/8 1-7/8 2 2

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