Ladies' Patterns

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Spencer Jacket variants

Early Spencer Jacket

Early Spencer jacket,  lined or unlined,  with optional ribbon, pom pom and tassel trimmings. Front gathered waistline is held closed with interior ties. Jacket is designed to fit over an early Regency gown and period-correct stays. Available in size 8 – 22, one size per pattern.

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1770's Riding Habit

1770's Riding Habit


The 18 th century riding habit was composed of 3 pieces: jacket, waistcoat and petticoat. The habit was worn for day wear and travel, as well as for sidesaddle horseback riding. 


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Riding Habit Shirt

18th Century Riding Habit Shirt
with Cravat and Neck Stock

The habit shirt was worn by ladies in the 18th century with the riding habit, a three piece suit for women, consisting of petticoat, waistcoat and jacket.  Ladies had the option of either plain collars, worn with a neck cloth, or ruffled collars, worn with a contrasting tie.

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18th Century Half-boned Stays
for a Fashionable Shape

Half-boned stays with shoulder straps, designed to give the torso a conical shape. These stays compress the ribcage and waist areas and may restrict movement of the shoulders and arms. Fully illustrated instructions are included, including How to Adjust the Pattern to Fit Your Figure. Available in sizes 8 – 22, one size per pattern.

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Robe à l’Anglaise
or English Nightgown

The most versatile gown of the 18th century!

Quick and easy to construct, the Robe à l’Anglaise a la polonaise can take you from encampment to ballroom, depending on your choice of fabrics and trimmings.

Similar gowns appear in collections of 18th century costumes all over the world, demonstrating the popularity of this style and its universal acceptance. Included in each package is a small sleeve flounce pattern, not shown in illustration, plus diagrams with instructions for making a petticoat to be worn over hoops or a false rump.

Available in sizes 8 – 22, one size per pattern.

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A Fine Collection of
Ladies' Jackets
for Undress Wear

This very special J. P. Ryan pattern contains 10 pattern pieces which may be combined to create an entire wardrobe of 18th century jackets.  Four views are given, each for a different time period.    Because all the pattern pieces, i.e. sleeves, cuffs, backs and front, were designed to fit together, you may create additional styles, based on your own personal research.

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Stays

Stays

Strapless stays, designed for comfort, give a cylindrical shape to the torso and allow full freedom of movement of the arms and shoulders. One size per pattern. Fully illustrated directions included for any necessary alterations required to fit your figure. Comes in sizes 6 through 24 for bust sizes 32-50. 
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Basic Wardrobe

Basic Six Piece Wardrobe

Contains pattern diagram for chemise in all sizes, plus illustrated directions for petticoat, apron and handkerchief. Patterns included for short gown and pocket. One size short gown per pattern, bust sizes 32-50. 
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Caraco

Caraco

Long jacket which may be worn down or up a la polonaise, with optional ruching strip to be attached across center front to hold handkerchief in place. Available in sizes 6 through 20, two sizes per pattern.

Pattern is for caraco jacket and sleeve flounces, with diagrams for handkerchief and petticoat to be worn over side hoops or false rump.  

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Robe a la Francaise

Pet-en-l'air or
Robe à la Française

The pet-en-l'air has a fitted torso without front waist seam, and a pleated sack back that extends from neckline to hem. The fit of the bodice is controlled by the lining; it has an under stomacher that laces closed in the front and ties to adjust the back. Pattern is for pet-en-l'air, three sleeve flounces and stomacher only. Instructions are included for extending the pet-en-l'air into a gown and for constructing a shaped petticoat which will hang evenly over pocket hoops. Available in sizes 6-8 through 22-24. 
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Hoops

Pocket Hoops

Boned hanging pockets which tie around the waist. One size fits all. Ideal for ball gowns. Hoops collapse for ease of movement and storage. 
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Manteau de Lit

Manteau-de-Lit

The Manteau-de-Lit or Bed-gown is an unfitted, T-shaped jacket with a shawl collar that continues into robings. It is knee-length, has seven-eighths length sleeves and underarm gussets. The bed-gown may be held closed using straight pins or an apron, for which directions are included.  The bed-gown is fairly close fitting around the torso, and is reversible when lined. If you wish a looser fit, please make one size larger than you normally wear.

Available in sizes S (32-34) through XXL (48-50). 
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Caps

Caps

A simple cap to cover the head, which can be worn with the ears turned toward or away from the face, as desired. An undress cap to be constructed in mid-weight white linen. One size fits all. 
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Dormeuse

Dormeuse, or Night Cap

The dormeuse, or French night cap, was especially popular in the 1770's.  This style was also referred to as a baigneuse, or bathing cap.  The crown of the cap fits loosely over the head, with rounded wings or ears framing the face. 
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Size Chart

Use bust and waist measurements to find the proper pattern size.

NOTE: Pattern sizes do not necessarily correspond to modern dress sizes.

Pattern Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

24

Bust

32

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

50

Waist

24

26

28

30

32

34

36

38

40

42

Center Back Length

16.00

16.25

16.50

16.75

17.00

17.25

17.50

17.75

18.00

18.25

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Williamsburg, VA 23187-1484 
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© Janice Pence Ryan, 2000. All Rights Reserved.